Well Pump Repair and Replacement Cost: What to Expect

Replacing a well pump typically costs $1,000 to $2,500 installed, depending on pump type and well depth. That range covers the pump, the labor to pull the old one and set the new one, and the basic fittings and wire connections. Repairs, pressure-tank swaps, and switch replacements cost less. Read the cheap fixes below before you commit to a new pump.

What moves the price

• Pump type: a submersible and a jet pump are different machines with different install work. More on that below.
• Well depth and horsepower: a deeper well and a longer lift need a stronger pump. More horsepower costs more to buy, and the deeper the pump sits, the more work it takes to reach it.
• Pipe and wire: a submersible hangs on drop pipe with a power cable alongside. Corroded pipe or damaged wire gets replaced, and a deep well means a lot of both.
• Pitless adapter and wellhead: the pitless adapter connects the pump line to the water line underground. If it leaks or is worn, replacing it adds parts and labor. A cracked or loose well cap should be fixed at the same visit.
• Pressure tank and switch: if the tank is bad or the switch has failed, replacing them with the pump adds to the total.
• Access: the crew needs room to bring in a rig or hoist and to lay the pipe out. A well in a pit, under a deck, or in a tight spot takes more time.
• Timing: a no-water emergency, a weekend call, or an after-hours visit costs more than a scheduled weekday job.
• Region: labor rates, travel distance, and local demand all show up in the price.

Submersible vs. jet pump

A submersible pump sits down in the well, under the water, and pushes water up to the house. A jet pump sits above ground, in a basement, pump house, or beside the wellhead, and pulls water up through a suction pipe. Pushing is easier than pulling, which is why a jet pump has limits on how deep it can work.

A shallow-well jet pump has one pipe and works where the water is fairly close to the surface. A deep-well jet pump uses two pipes and an ejector down in the well to reach farther. Most modern drilled wells use submersibles. They handle depth well, run quietly because they are underwater, and do not need to prime. A jet pump is usually easier to reach and service, since it is in plain sight, but it is louder and is less common on newer wells.

In general, a submersible costs more to replace than a jet pump, because pulling it out of the well is more work. A jet pump costs less, but not every well can use one.

Rule out the cheap fixes first

Many "dead pump" calls turn out to be something smaller. Before you buy a pump, check these. Our well pump troubleshooting guide walks through the symptoms step by step.

• Tripped breaker: check the pump breaker in the panel first. A breaker that trips again right away points to a real fault, so do not keep resetting it.
• Pressure switch: the switch tells the pump when to start and stop. Worn contacts can leave the pump off even though it is fine.
• Control box or capacitor: some submersibles use a control box with a start capacitor. A failed one keeps the pump from starting. It costs far less than a pump.
• Waterlogged pressure tank: a tank that has lost its air charge makes the pump cycle on and off fast, which causes pressure swings and wears the pump.
• Check valve: a stuck or leaking check valve lets water drain back down the well. Pressure drops and the pump runs more than it should.
• Dry well versus dead pump: a pump that runs but moves little or no water can mean the water level dropped, not that the pump failed. A new pump does not fix a well with too little water.

If you have no water at all, our no-water quote request sends the details to licensed contractors who can test it on site.

Where your job lands in the range

These examples show how the factors above place a job. They are illustrations, not quotes.

• Toward the low end: a shallow well, a modest pump, the old pipe and wire in good shape, easy access, and a weekday appointment.
• Around the middle: a typical drilled well with a submersible, some new pipe or wire, and a new switch or fittings added at the same visit.
• Toward the high end or above: a deep well that needs a larger pump, a lot of new pipe and cable, a new pitless adapter, a replacement pressure tank, and a weekend emergency call.

How long a well pump lasts

A well pump typically lasts 8 to 15 years. Several things shorten that:

• Sediment: sand and grit wear the pump internals. If your water is gritty, mention it to the installer.
• Short cycling: starting and stopping too often is hard on the motor. A waterlogged tank is a common cause.
• Running dry: a pump that runs without water overheats and can burn out.
• An undersized tank: it makes the pump start too often.

Repair or replace?

If the fault is in a cheap part, a repair is the right call. Replace the pump when the motor has failed, the pump is at the end of its normal life, or it keeps cycling and losing pressure after the switch and tank check out. An older pump that is already out of the well is often worth replacing, since pulling it is the larger part of the labor. Ask the installer to say what failed and show you the old part.

What a quote should itemize

Ask every company for the same list, in writing, so you can compare totals and not just base prices:

• The pump brand, type, and horsepower, and why that size fits your well.
• Pipe, wire, and fittings: what is reused and what is replaced.
• The pitless adapter and well cap, if they are being replaced.
• The pressure tank and pressure switch, if included.
• Labor, any rig or hoist charge, and any trip or service-call fee.
• Emergency or after-hours rates.
• Disinfecting the well after the work.
• The warranty on the pump and on the labor.

What happens on the day

The crew shuts off power, then pulls the old pump, pipe, and wire out of the well. They check the old pump, pipe, and cable to see what failed. They check the well depth and the water level, and confirm the pump setting. The new pump is sized to the well: the depth, the water level, and the flow your house needs. They set it, connect the wire and the pitless adapter, check the tank and switch, and start the system.

When the work is done, the well should be disinfected, because opening the well can let in bacteria. Ask whether it is part of the job.

After the work

• Test the water. Have it tested after the well is disinfected and flushed. See our well water testing guide for what to test for.
• Write down the pressures. Ask the installer for the cut-in and cut-out pressures the switch is set to, and note them. They are useful if the pressure changes later.
• Keep the paperwork. The invoice should name the pump model and size. Buyers and inspectors ask for it; see buying a house with a well and septic.

How to find a licensed pump installer

Licensing and permit rules vary by state. Many states license pump installation separately from well drilling, and some require a permit for the work. Find your state to see how it works where you live. The city pages on this site for well pump repair list only businesses whose license class covers it, and the listings come from official licensing rosters. Confirm a license with the agency that issued it. You can also request quotes for a well pump.

Common questions